Wednesday, July 11, 2012

Lago de Atitlan

We all got up early and were in the bus ready to roll just a few minutes after 6.  After about an hour, we stopped and bought hot chocolate.  It was quite chilly and several people bought warm wraps as well.  No complaints about the early departure with the scenic overlook of the lake and volcanoes.   It was so classically beautiful that in pictures, it almost looked like a painted back drop. 
In Panajachel, we met up with the boat captain that our guide in Antigua recommended.  It was a calm ride going along the edge of the lake to the village of Santa Catarina.  There were several people at the dock selling their weavings and demonstrating the use of the back strap looms. In this village, most of the women wore huipils with blue fabric and embroidery.  Each area has their distinct traditional dress.


From Santa Catarina we crossed the lake to Santiago Atitlan.  This is a bigger town and the vendors are much more aggressive.  We arranged to have a tour of the city in 6 little Tuk-Tuks which are like 3 wheeled motorized rickshaws.  I felt like we were a Shriner's parade but it was a great way to stay together and see a lot in a short period of time.  Our first stop was where the women went to wash their clothes in the lake.  Even though a more modern place was built for them, they continue to use the lake.


Our next stop was the Parque de la Paz.  During the 1980's the civil war was ravaging Guatemala.  Santiago Atitlan was one of the many villages that had young men in-scripted. An American priest was shot while protecting several of them.  The park we visited was where 13 villagers were shot when they stood up to the army and said, "No more!" The markers were where the 13 fell and died.  The first marker we saw was of a 5 year old boy.  The markers next to him were for his father and uncle.  The massacre brought international attention to the problem and a peace agreement was decided upon.  Every month on the anniversary, a mass is said in the park to commemorate the fallen. 



A tour of Santiago Atitlan would not be complete without a visit to Maximon.  He likes gifts of tobacco, neckties and liquor. We really didn't come prepared with the appropriate gifts.  He visits a shaman's house for a year and then moves to a new location.  People visit him, bearing gifts and in return, Maximon helps them with their health problems, love, getting jobs for their family members in the States, etc.  The Shaman is the go between and translates into the Quich'l language when necessary.  Oh, Maximon appears as a statue.  One must believe and have faith for him to help.


Our last stop was at the church.  The highlight was seeing the room commemorating where the priest was shot.

We finished the tour back down at the dock where all of the vendors were waiting for us like piranhas. They followed us to the boat and harassed us until the boat pulled away from the dock.  Being polite did not work. There was a welcome peace until we got to the middle of the lake.  That was when the wind and waves come up just like our guide had said.  A choppy ride back to Panajachel where Gregorio was waiting for us.  He had made reservations at a place that specializes in black trout from the lake.  Yummy!
Another full day  that ended back at the hotel with this as the view.  Our hotel was just up the road from the dock where we visited Santa Catarina.  It was fun to see the girls again and continue our interactions with them.





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