Wednesday, June 25, 2014

Incidents of Travel in Yucatan June 2014

 Back home from a wonderful trip!  I didn’t end up writing during the trip as the days were extremely full and often internet service was sketchy at best.  So, from the comfort of home …….


June 10

We took an early morning flight to Cancun which meant leaving in the dark but the reward was being in Cancun with our rental car ready to go before noon.  Juan knew a little hole in the wall place to get tortas (sandwiches on good hoagie style rolls).  We got them to go and drove a short distance past all of the luxury hotels to a beautiful public beach.  We enjoyed the tortas  in the shade of a palapa with the view of the turquoise water and white sand.


After lunch, Juan took us to a new museum in the hotel district.  It had many beautiful artifacts from the Yucatan peninsula.  The explanations were all in Spanish which made it difficult for the average Cancun tourist to understand what they were seeing.  Luckily, we have Juan.  The museum is built so the ground level is an open garden with pleasant sitting areas in the shade with a nice breeze while the upper level is the actual museum with nice views of the ocean. 











At the museum there is a small archeological site of the post classic period with small palace remains and a small pyramid. 
They are inhabited now  by iguanas. 



Now it is time to really leave the tourists behind. We drive through low, green vegetation.  The road is straight and good. About 2 hours later we arrive in the colonial city of Valladolid.  Our hotel is across the street from the church and just off the main square.   A quick check in and we’re off  for a refreshing swim in the cenote.  It is about 4:30 and the cenote closes at 5:00 so most people are packing up and leaving.  The advantage is that we now have the idyllic place to ourselves.  





I try to tell people how wonderful it is to swim in a cenote but they just don’t get it until they do it.  The water is fresh, almost cold.  It is clear so you easily see your toes while treading water and then blackness into the depths.  Birds are swooping all around above you and little fish are swimming all around below you.  It’s heaven on earth!

For dinner, we go across the square to a colonial house that has been converted to a restaurant.  We toast to the beginning of the trip, adventure and friendship.  The first of many toasts.


As is common in most colonial towns, the church is on one side of the central square and a government building is on another side.  We visited the governor’s building to see the murals depicting the significance of Valladolid in the Caste Wars of the late 1800’s.  The area is lively.  A group of young people practicing traditional dances in the governor’s building, people of all ages strolling in the park enjoying the cool evening air.  Atlanta seems like a long way away!

June 11

We have breakfast at a beautiful hotel near Chichen Itza.  This way, we can enter the ruins through the back and avoid the big tourist entrance.  Juan knows all the tricks.  He also knows there is a mango tree behind the hotel with ripe mangos!  What a treat to pick the mangos off the tree and eat them immediately.


We are early enough at Chichen Itza to be ahead of the tours and crowds.  We enter through a small archway into the area that was once the market.  Bigger than a city block with hundreds of carved columns.  This extends back behind the Temple of the Warriors. 
Temple of the warriors

Chac masks on the corner of the Temple of the warriors
Human head coming out of a serpents mouth

Even though I have been here many times, it is impressive.  The iconic, El Castillo, dominates the main area.
 
The merchants are now setting up as they expect the onslaught of tourists soon.  Thankfully, we are ahead of them.  Many of the vendors are selling carved jaguar heads that when one blows in them, it sounds like a real jaguar roar.  The first one took me by surprise but then the frequent roars became part of the atmosphere.  When Chichen Itza was booming (about 700-1000AD) people came from long distances to trade and sell their goods.  Now, people still come from great distances to see Chichen Itza and buy from the merchants that are there. 
Bas-relief of a jaguar



The Tzompantli, or Skull Platform  
We visit the sacred cenote, huge ballcourt, altars of the Itza period. 
One end of the ball court


We continue to the older part of Chichen Itza that is characterized by Puuc architecture.  This is where the observatory is.  Many years ago, tourists could go up in the observatory, sit in the stone seats, leaning their head back into the indentation and watch clouds move across the slits in the roof.  It was easy to see how charting of the skies was done. 




What’s the absolute best thing to do after visiting ruins?  Swim in a cenote!  That’s just what we did.  I don’t have any pictures of it because I didn’t want to take my camera down the probably 100’ into the cenote well.  But, it was a nearly perfect circle with the deep, clear water.   Ahhhhhhhhhhh!  And what is the absolute best thing to do after swimming in a cenote?  Eating sabutes and panuchos and that is just what we did. 





After a refreshing swim and delicious food, we set off for the town of Izamal.  Izamal was a huge important site in its day with several massive pyramids.  When the Spanish came they took the stones from the pyramids and palaces and built a fine church and monastery.  It is built to fill one of the  old Maya platforms.  The atrium is huge and the one at the Vatican is the only one in the world that is larger.  On a sunny day, it is a photographer’s dream.  But today it is cloudy so we spend our time enjoying locally made ice cream on the square.  Yummy!

Monastery of Izamal 

We end the day with a drive to Merida where we check into our hotel, San Juan.  It is a couple of blocks off the main square and ½ block from the Parque de Santa Lucia.  Juan goes home to have dinner with his family and we dine at the Chaya Maya which specializes in traditional foods and is in a beautiful colonial house.  Chaya is leafy vine-type plant that is used in soups, sauces, and drinks. 
Hotel San Juan


June 12
Today is Merida, the capital city of the state of Yucatan.  Often I have errands I need to run in Merida and am not able to join on the walking tour.  Today, however, the people I want to meet are busy until the afternoon.  

We start on the roof of the Hotel Caribe where we had breakfast.  From here, we get good view of the back of the cathedral.  We visit the government building with its impressive stairway and murals.




Casa de Montejo
The house of Montejo, the leader of the Spanish who took over Merida.  It is now a bank but also houses visiting art exhibits and has several rooms with period pieces.  The ceiling in the dinning room is original and exquisite.
Ceiling in the dining room

 


Visiting the market place is always interesting.  We spent most of our time in the fruit, vegetable, spices section.  Bought several different varieties of mangos – small yellow ones, small yellow ones with a little rough skin, medium yellow ones, big yellow ones, big red ones……

We drive to see the Paseo Montejo which was the boulevard with the big houses from the henniquin boom period in the late 1800’s.  Many of them have been torn down to build new buildings but several still exist, often as banks or offices.  This is still the affluent area of the city with a heavy pressence of US companies – Sam’s, Walmart, Chevy, Ford dealerships, Kentucky Fried, Burger King…….

After dinner, we go to the Parque de Santa Lucia to catch the traditional seranata that has been in the park every Thursday evening for 50 years.  It includes people reciting poetry, singing and ends with traditional dances.  There are a few tourists here but it really is for the locals. 

June 13

We start the day with a breakfast of mangos and bakery bread.  We rate the different varieties of mangos and unanimously decided that the small yellow ones are the best.  But we need more trials. 

A short drive takes us to the ruins of Dzibilchaltun. We visit the museum before going into the site.  The museum is small but well organized and takes the viewer from early inhabitation of the area through Spanish colonization and the Caste War.
Temple of 7 Dolls is the most known building of the site which was inhabited for 1000s of years.  On the Vernal equinox the sun rises directly through one of the doors. 


Temple of the seven dolls

 Since the Maya were not accustomed to worshipping inside, the Spanish built an open chapel with only a front nave.

 The highlight of the ruins was a swim in the cenote on the site.  This cenote is different from the others we swam in as it is at ground level and gradually slants down to go under ground.  Still clear and fresh.



After the ruins we went to Juan’s house for lunch.  Carmen made potaje which is a stew type dish with different squashes, chicken, avocado.  Very delicious.  It was good to see his family again.  We got a tour of the back garden and trees.

On the road again to Celestun, a small fishing town on the Gulf coast next to the bioreserve.  We enjoy an afternoon swim in the Gulf and come in for a shower before dinner.  No water!?  We are told it will be about 30 minutes before it is pumped up.  We wait for the water, clean up and head out for dinner.  Oh, no! The restaurants on the beach close up early when the sun worshipers leave.  One restaurant still has someone stacking chairs.  I ask if there is any place still open.  The cook hasn’t left yet!  We’re in luck!  We end up with a wonderful seafood dinner with our toes in the sand.  By the way, a flashlight shining on the bottom of a full plastic water bottle makes a really nice lamp. 
After dinner, we enjoyed the nightlife on the square.  People playing basketball, dogs lazing around, kids enjoying snacks, young romances budding. 

June 14

A morning boat ride through the estuary. 

 Winter months are when 1000s of flamingos are found in the shallow waters of the estuary.  But, the week before our visit, there were tremendous rainstorms that made raised the water level of the estuary.  One young flamingo stayed behind. 



Cormorants sunned themselves on posts.




Then back into the mangrove swamps.  Small birds flit in and out.  We go to an area where fresh water bubbles up and forms a sweet swimming hole. 





We take the back road shortcut to Uxmal, going through several small villages that were once part of haciendas.  We stop at one of them to see the elaborate architecture of the main house and machine buildings.




Juan has called ahead to a restaurant close to Uxmal to order  cochinita pibil.  It needs to be baked in the ground for several hours.  Tender and yummy! 

Uxmal may be my favorite ruins site.  Graceful architecture with well preserved decoration.  

Pyramid of the Dwarf

Chennes style doorway


Good example of the Mayan or corbel arch
One side of the nunnery quadrangle.  The architect for the  Archaeology museum in Mexico City was inspired by this set of buildings. 

Nunnery quadrangle with Governor's palace in the background
Pigeon cote.  Shadows make an undulating snake


Back side of the Governor's palace

We stayed overnight at Hacienda Uxmal which is an easy walk from the ruins.  Many famous people have stayed at the hotel.  Queen Elizabeth, Indira Gandhi, Kissinger.  We stayed in the rooms where Caroline Kennedy and John F Kennedy Jr stayed.








  




June 16

We start the day in the village of  Santa Elena visiting a couple who lovingly live a traditional Maya life and share  their unique knowledge.  They have an altar in the main thatched roof house that is a mixture of Catholic and Maya symbols. 

El Senor shows us how he makes twine from henequen by wrapping it around his big toe.  Juan said he remembers his father making the twine on his thigh.  

La Senora made us the BEST handmade tortillas.  Amazing how she can make them so quickly and perfectly round.  They are puffy and light. 
They have fruit trees, a raised garden.  We are given some more mangos for more mango trials.  Still don’t quite hold up to the small yellow ones we bought in the Merida market. 


Our next stop is the ruins of Xtampak. 


A new site for me.  This site is small and rarely visited.  We were certainly the only ones there all day and probably all week.  The site is built on top of a hill so it was a walk up hill from the parking lot.  One of the interesting things about this site is the combination of several different styles of architecture from several different regions. 
It is one of the southern most sites to find Puuc style, western most site with Rio Bec style and then throw in Chenes and the steep decoration only steps that are seen at Xpuhil. 


Puuc style
Chennes style
Rio Bec style
Xpuhil kind of steps
We found LOTS of pottery shards.  Pictures only, please. 

Since this site is rarely visited, there are no facilities for eating.  We brought a lunch of cochinita tortas (kind of like pulled pork) and fruit.  We did some more sample testing of mangos.  The small yellow, smooth skin ones are still on top.  We also had the pitaya fruit that we got in the market in Merida.  Juan has a plant at his house too but they weren’t quite ready.  It grows on a succulent type vine. 




Next stop – Campeche, a UNESCO World Heritage colonial city on the Gulf of Mexico.  

The fort is similar to many Spanish forts along the Gulf  such as the ones in Cartagena, and Saint Augustine.  All built to protect from pirates in the 17th century. 

The inside of the fort was a museum with items from several Maya sites.  Many wonderful things were brought from the site of Calakmul, a rival city of Tikal in Guatemala.  Even though, Calakmul isn’t on the itinerary, I start getting an itch to go there.  Juan has told me about it for several years but with a large group, I never felt that I could include it.  With the small group, this seemed like the time to do it.  Art and Aaron were up for the adventure.  While Juan gave a walking tour of the historic area of Campeche, I stayed at the hotel to figure out how to work in Calakmul.   Another new site for me!

June 17

After a good breakfast in the hotel we go to the ruins of Edzna.  A 5-story temple dominates the site but delicate painted masks are present too. 








We continue on down the Gulf coast for Palenque in the state of Chiapas.  A quick but delightful stop for lunch.


After checking into our hotel in Palenque, we explore the grounds of the hotel.  More mango trees, a mud bath pool, paths through the jungle. 


June 18

Today is a full day with a drive to the border with Guatemala to catch a boat up the Usamacinta river to the ruins of  Yaxchilan.

We set off early with a box breakfast from the hotel.  The road is good at first  but then we make the turn towards the river.  Oh the topes!  Topes are speed bumps that are at the beginning and end of  every sign of human life.  Usually they are marked but not always.  Must be alert.  We stop for breakfast at a jungle restaurant. The tables are made from slabs of trees.  The whole place is dark from all of the vegetation.   Since we are ordering fresh squeezed juice, they allow us to eat our boxed breakfast there.  A nice break in the drive. 
We continue on to Frontera Corozal, the town where we negotiate for a boat to take us to Yaxchilan.  The town wants a higher percentage of the money from the tourist trade so stops all traffic in AND out of the town to collect a ransom.  We pay and are allowed in.  At the river we get a good price for the boat and there are howler monkeys eating fruit in the tree above us.  Oh, we are talking jungle and adventure now. 





The deluge rainstorms of the previous week are still evident.  The river is still high and fast but we can see that it has gone down about 4 feet from the crest.  Our boat driver is good and can read the river well.  Sometimes we are on the Guatemala side and sometimes on the Mexican side.  We see huge ceiba trees and just as Aaron asks if there are crocodiles in the river, we see one sunning himself on the bank. 




The rainstorm has washed out a large section of the steps up the bank to the ruins.  Dirt steps have been dug into the bank but it is slippery.  We all make it up without incident. 

We walk about ¼ mile to where the ruins are.  To enter, one must go through the pitch-black labyrinth.  I do have a small flashlight with me. 

Entrance to the labyrinth
Exit of the labyrinth

After going through the labyrinth, one comes out  in a large open area with many palaces. 


In this setting this huge ceiba tree doesn’t seem out of place or over powering. 

Yaxchilan is known for the intricately, well preserved steles and lintels. 
Early archeologists tried to move this stele but it fell and the top corner broke off.  It now lies where it fell.  It depicts passing of power from one to another with well preserved glyphs to tell who and when.  The stele is probably about 10 feet long.



Some of the finest lintels and stele are in the building at the top of the pyramid. 



Sometimes, one must go to great lengths to get the right camera angle. 


The royal Aaron


Queen Ginger with my wooden scepter and large "feathered" headdress. 

After a nice lunch, we start our drive back to Palenque.  It should have started with paying our ransom out of town, but all the guards were busy watching the world cup so we slipped through. 

We stopped on the way back at 3 lakes.  We were able to walk to 2 of them.  They do have crocodiles in them so swimming is a bit at your own risk.  Guides know where the crocs tend to be and know how to watch for them.  It was raining so we weren’t even tempted. 



This one is about 2 years old.
We had a relaxing dinner in Palenque along the river. 


June 19

The plan today is to see the ruins of Palenque and then drive back to the Southern part of the Yucatan peninsula so we can visit Chalakumul the following day.
Palenque is one of the most beautiful and well-preserved sites.  Archeology work has been done here for several hundred years so it well known and frequently visited. 
The parking lot has vendors and people offering to wash your car and guard it while you visit the site.  The car really is dirty so I agree.  We get what we need from the trunk and I do the never! Ever! No-No.  I put the car keys on the ledge of the trunk.  Yes, I close the trunk and even though every other time we try to close it, it takes several tries, this time it closes with the first slam.  This is a very basic rental car and doesn’t have a lever to open the trunk from the inside of the car.  I’ve seen the ruins many times so send the others in and tell them I will catch up when I get the key problem solved.  I find the little guy who I paid to wash the car and explain my problem.  He calls over the “expert.”  With him comes a bevy of coaches and onlookers.  Looks to see if he can go in through the back seat.  Doesn’t look promising.  I show him right where the keys are and that you can even see them.  He takes out his handy-dandy wire with a hook on it, someone else pulls on the trunk to give as much space as possible.  They ask about the keychain.  Is there a ball on the end?  No, it is flat .  (Actually a church key!  What US car rental place would give you a car key with their name on a church key?)  Anyway, after a few minutes of manipulating and 500 pesos to the hero, I had the keys in my hand!  I caught up with the group and they hadn’t even gotten to the first pyramid yet!

Palenque is situated at the bottom of the mountains but takes advantage of some of the hills for extra height and drama. The rulers names and dates they ruled from 430AD to 799 are known through the hieroglyphics that were found.  
The first pyramids that one sees when entering are all burials.  The biggest one is of Pakal.  The others are for his wife and mother.  We climbed the 2 that climbing is allowed.  We were able to get inside of one to see the burial rooms and large sarcophagus.  One needs special permission to go into Pakal’s tomb but there is a reproduction of it in the museum.  The lid of the sarcophagus in Pakal’s tomb is probably about 3 meters long by 2 meters wide and intricately carved. 

First of the line of tombs
Pakal's tomb (Temple of the inscriptions)

The palace is an elaborate maze of rooms and courtyards that were enlarged and remodeled on various occasions, notably
 in the years 654, 661 and 668. The natural stream is rerouted to go through the structure for sauna rituals as well as more daily sanitary functions. 



Some of the painted wall decorations are still visible as well as sculptured plaster and bas-relief carvings. 



The observatory let them see over the valley for defense purposes. 



Many vendors are in the site and one of the things they sell are burned and painted leather copies of the carvings found in Palenque.  Juan uses them to easily show what people will see when they climb the temple of the foliated cross and temple of the sun.  The merchant happily lets Juan use the drawings for visual explanations as it often results in a sale.  Everyone wins. 



While the  others are visiting the museum, I go into town to do some errands and meet them just as they are coming out of the museum.
  At our lunch spot, Juan shows a cacao tree.  It is interesting how the fruit grows directly on the branches.



Escarcega is a small dusty city that started at the junction of the railroad and highway for the people collecting chicle for gum.  We stopped at a grocery store to buy supplies for breakfast and lunch for our visit to Calakmul.  Rolls, avocados, peanut butter, cheese, nuts, tequila, bananas, mangos.  Then back on the road to the EcoVillage hotel at Chicana.  We pull in a little before sunset.  Enjoy some tequila and then have a light dinner at their restaurant. 
The hotel is in the middle of the scrub jungle so there aren’t any lights to pollute the night skies.  Art and I climb the 3 story observatory We get to the top floor and there is a roof above us!  This is no way to see the night sky!  A metal ladder leads to the next level where the water tanks are.  You don’t come this far in the dark to see the stars and not go up the ladder!  It was a bit tricky not to step on any of the pipes but the stars were worth it!  The constellations stand out clearly on a twinkling back-ground.  Wow!  Feel like such a speck in the cosmos. 

June 19

We get an early start for the drive to Calakmul.  Good road for the first hour, then start on the road into the biosphere.  First hour of that is a pretty good road and then the next hour is purposely narrow and curvy to force people to go slow to protect the wildlife. 
We stop at the turn off into the Bioreserve to eat our breakfast.  An Austrian came over to us and was extremely upset.  He had hired a taxi to take him to the ruins and they wouldn’t let the taxi into the reserve.  No buses or even large vans are allowed in but it does seem odd that they don’t allow the taxi in.  They have small vans to take people but it costs about $80 per person.  Our car was too small to invite him to ride with us. 
He did catch a ride at least part of the way.  I hope he did get there to see the site. 
Along the way we saw several oscillated turkeys, fox and a coati which is a member of the raccoon family.  But the most common was road craters.  The road didn’t need to be curvy and narrow to slow traffic, the potholes were quite effective. 

Calakmul covers about 27 square miles with hundreds of mounds covered by jungle.  Only a fraction have been uncovered.  In its day, they estimate a population of about 50,000 people and ruling over an area of about 5,000 square miles.  The emblem glyph for Calakmul has been found in more sites and hieroglyphic writings than any other Maya city.

Emblem glyph of Calakmul

 Unfortunately, the chicaleros supplemented their income with selling artifacts from the site.  The site has many steles, often 3 in front of each temple.  Many are still in good shape.  Some have had the carvings sawed off by the chicaleros which also makes the hieroglyphics on the sides unreadable. 

The paths between the buildings are mossy which gives the effect of walking down a green velvet path. 

The largest of the pyramids is called a double pyramid.  From the ground you can see to the first level but once you climb to that level, another pyramid becomes visible behind the tomb structures. 

View of the first temple

View from the top of the second pyramid
This is where we released a small bottle of ashes of our friend, Steve.  He lived his life fully and it was good to remember him here on top of the biggest pyramid of one of the most powerful Maya cities.  He would have liked that!



A group of students were at the site on their end of the year trip.  Everyone wanted a picture of himself or herself with the young, handsome, blond American. 

After visiting the site we enjoyed our picnic lunch before starting the long drive back to modern civilization. 



When we left in the morning it seemed that we had plenty of gas but then as we are driving out, the gas gage drops dramatically.  I nonchalantly ask just how far it is to Xpuhil and the gas station.  Hmmmm.  About 45 kilometers back to the main road and then about another 45 km to Xpuhil. We had figured out earlier that we got about 11 km/liter and when the tank showed empty before, we put in 42 liters.  Oh, this is going to be close!  There is definitely enough to get back to the main road.  We turn off the AC and open the windows.  I drive as evenly as I can to conserve gas.  Once back on the main road, decide that about 90 km/hr is probably the most efficient speed.  The gas warning light comes on.  Ok, we probably have about 1 gallon left.  Sign to Xpuhil -48 km.  Oh, this is going to be close!   Sign for 10km.  We’re within walking distance of the gas station.  We make it!  All heave a sigh of relief. Put in 44.3 liters!  Really don’t want to go through that experience again!

The days driving isn’t over.  We need to go on a secondary road to back to Uxmal for the night.  It starts out great but quickly disintegrates to pothole city.  Aaron is doing the driving.  We joke that it is like a video game with different levels.  Avoid the potholes, next level add shadows so it is hard to see the potholes. Next level add dogs to avoid.  After avoiding a certain amount of potholes, you get a bonus level of smooth road but you don’t know when it will abruptly end in a crater.  Nerve wracking but we do have plenty of gas.  We will get there!  The last section is paved and smooth. 
We had not planned to go back to Uxmal but with the addition of Calakmul, it worked.  The people in the hotel were surprised and pleased to see us again so soon.  They were able to give us the Kennedy rooms again.  A nice place to land after the long drive.  Tequila toasts all around! A great dinner with serenades.  Then a surprise complimentary dessert!  Yum Bo'otik means "Thank you!" in Maya.





June 20

Our last full day. A good send-off breakfast and off to the caves of Loltun.  Since so much of Maya beliefs are based on the underworld, living level and sky, the caves held great significance.  There is evidence of life in the caves back 10,000 years.  Recovered bones of mammoth, bison. Paintings.  The cave was also used during the Caste war as a safe hiding place. 





These columns are hollow and ring when pounded with your fist. 



Our guide  in the cave is a well known healing/massage person.  He puts some special oil on my arthritic knee and massages it.  Wow!  It doesn’t hurt at all!  He sells me a bottle of the oil but I think it was probably more his artful massage than the oil that made the most difference. 

After we come out of the caves we enjoy the pineapple that we bought from a woman selling them along side the road.  Yummy and sweet!



Art displays the royal pineapple plumage.



We continue to the town of Oxkutzcab where there is a large daily market for fruits and vegetables.  A nice policeman lets us park in the pick up/drop off area for “20 minutes, no more!”  I run to the ATM to replenish my purse while the others poke around the market.  Argh!  The ATM is out of service!  Oh well, I still have money and can exchange $ money in Valladolid. 




Our next stop is Mani.  It is now a small sleepy town but when the Spanish came, it was more of a hub of activity.  A large church was built with stones from Maya structures.  (A rather familiar theme!)  Mani has the unfortunate notoriety of being the place where Bishop Landa gathered all of the Maya codices and burned them.   He later wrote a book, Relacion de las cosas de Yucatan in 1566 on Mayan life and religion which remains a classic text and helped with the decipherment of the language. 







We enjoy a traditional lunch in Mani while watching  the Costa Rica/Italy World Cup soccer game.  Costa Rica was the underdog and won it!  Fun to see the joy and excitement of the fans and the team.

We still have the afternoon and visit the ruins of Mayapan, a post classic site that was heavily influenced by Chichen Itza. 




They have an observatory but it isn’t functional, the temple that is similar to El Castillo is much smaller and has stucco work rather than stone carvings.  There are well preserved paintings depicting fish, the diving god, sun god. 




The mot-mot birds gather around the well.  These are beautiful birds with iridescent blue on their heads and bottom tail feathers. They are easy to identify with the unique, long tail feathers.





The flamboyant petals cover the path.




The rains are coming and we continue on towards Valladolid.  We take the ruta libre  that goes through towns rather than the toll road. Art and I are interested in a final swim in a cenote.  It is nearing 5:00 when ruin sites close, cenotes close, museums close.  We get to the cenote of Yok D’cenot just at 5:00.  We ask if we can go in anyway.  One sweet, older woman with sparkling eyes understands our desire for a last swim and agrees to ½ hour.  We quickly change into our suits, follow her down the path and dive in.  Oh beauty!   Cold, fresh, clear.  The mot-mots and fly catchers are swopping right over our heads.  We are in the point of transition between the underworld and our world.  We thank the woman profusely and head back to the car.   We’ve come full circle.  Starting and ending the trip with refreshing swims in a cenote. 


Back to Valladolid where we enjoy dinner reminiscing about the trip.  Every trip has a different flavor.  This one was mango.  Driving a car instead of a van or small bus with a driver brought more of a sense of adventure but I do appreciate what a driver brings to the tour too.  Having such a small group gave us some flexibility that isn’t possible with a larger group.  We got to know and enjoy each other a lot!  Another wonderful, successful trip with great memories! 

June 21

We turn the rental car back in without any problem and return home with a deeper understanding of ourselves, the Maya and the world.  




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