Saturday - Muyil, Sian-Kan

We have arranged to meet my friend, Val, and the Central College students for the morning.  We meet at their hotel in Tulum and caravan to the ruins of Muyil.  The ruins are small and of the post-classic time period  even though there is evidence that the site was inhabited since 300 BC.  The pyramid seems like a miniature of pyramids at Tikal in Guatemala.  There were MANY mosquitos at the site so we opted not to go back to the part they call the oracle because Juan said the mosquitos would be even worse back there. 

The ruins are right next to the bio-sphere reserve, Sian-Kan. We drive down a small unpaved road to a lagoon where we get in small boats.  The lagoon is large with calm water.  The boat driver slows at the other side at a point that seemed like just like all others but when we looked closer, there was an opening in the mangroves.  We go through a small opening for about 100 yards and come out in another lagoon.  Cross that lagoon and stop at a dock.  There is a small Maya structure there marking the entrance to a canal that goes out to the open water of the Caribbean.  It is generally about 4-5 feet deep with a gentle current.  We float down it on our life preservers.  Oh, it is so cool!  When we get to the end of the canal, there is a board walk with all of our shoes neatly lined up.  We walk along the board walk back to where we started.  No pictures of this adventure as it is not camera friendly.  

We come back to the condo to get dry clothes.  We had planned to go out to lunch but once we are here, we decide the left over fruit and snacks is a fine lunch and we’ll just have a nice big dinner.  Relax by the pool.  Oh, it’s now happy hour!   Julie has adopted a pet iguana and feeds it pineapple.  

The condo complex has a restaurant overlooking the ocean and we decide that would be a great place for our last dinner.  We go up, the ocean breeze is wonderful.  We enjoy the drinks but as our food comes, so do the mosquitos!  It was amazing how fast and how numerous they were!.  We grabbed up our plates of shrimp shish kabobs and take them down to our condo to enjoy in peace. 

Where to next year?

Friday, Tulum, Acumal

A quick stop at Cenote Azul to see it from the vantage point where we can see the cenote and the lake behind.  Even though they are so close, they are separate bodies of water and don't mix. The cenote is extremely deep and drains under the shallow lake.

The road North, along the coast is good.  It is like many of the roads here.  There are 2 good regular lanes.  One going each direction.  On each side, there is a 3/4 width lane.  The trucks move over to let you pass.  Since it is so flat, one can see a nice long way.  There is very little, other than vegetation for the first half of the trip.  As we get closer to Tulum, we start seeing more signs of civilization. When we get to Tulum, we are in the midst of tourism.  The ATM machines even give US dollars unless you go to one at a bank which will give pesos.  

I have been to the ruins of Tulum many times so decided to pass today.  Juan knew a back place to park where the small tours vans park.  I stayed with the drivers at a nice comfortable restaurant.  We ran into a couple of drivers we've had in the past.  After a couple of hours the group came back, hot and happy.  They were even happier after a cold drink!

Akumal is only a short distance North from Tulum.  We found our condo for the next 2 days but it isn't ready so we go for lunch at a local place.  Oh, the shrimp tacos were great!

The condo is ready and what a beautiful place to land.  Huge open living/dining room with a full kitchen  -- a patio, the pool just a few steps away with someone tending the bar, a few more steps and you're on the beach.  All along the beach there are markers for turtle nests.  In a few weeks the eggs will be hatching.  

Since we had a big, late lunch, we just snack for dinner.  Juan makes the best guacamole ever!

Thursday: Becan, Xpuhil, Kohunlich, Cenote Azul, Chetumal

Our first stop today is the ruins of Becan.  It was the capital of the city state known as Rio Bec.  There is a moat like structure around it but it never was for water.  One of the characteristic things about the structures here are that the corners are rounded rather than square.  The palaces are big and dense with a bit of a labyrinth of rooms.   Again, the decoration of older structures that had been covered by newer structures are in the best shape.   Now that we are out  of the Puuc region, the sun god is more venerated than the rain god.  Don’t worry, we didn’t climb the steps with the rope.  In my younger days, I was the first one up those steps. 

The next site is Xpuhil which is just a few kilometers down the road.  In fact, if one climbs the highest pyramid in Becan, the main pyramid of Xpuhil is easily seen.  I sit this one out as I need to give my knees a break. 

Since it is too early for lunch now and there really aren’t any places to eat around Kohunlich, we stop in the town of Xpuhil to buy some snacks to eat at the ruins.  We buy a watermelon and some salty, crunchy snacks. 

When we get to Kohunlich, the caretakers invite us to use their kitchen to cut up the watermelon.  That is certainly neater and easier than a stump and there is plenty to share with them.  They share the mangos they have with us.  Kohunlich is close enough to the Caribbean that it is an excursion site for cruise ships.  Luckily, today wasn’t a cruise ship day! 

 We sit out a short rain shower under their thatched roof and then set off to see the ruins.  We immediately notice a big change in the vegetation.  The trees are much bigger, more palms, healthy, huge plants that at home we see for sale as an indoor potted plant.   We are lucky that any time a short shower hits, we are near a thatched shelter. 

The Sun god is the one most focused on at this site as well.  It is represented between the underworld and the sky deities. 

Our last stop of the day is at Cenote Azul which is the biggest and deepest of the cenotes in the Yucatan peninsula.  It has a nice restaurant attatched to it and is a favorite place for Mexican families to spend an afternoon.  It is relatively easy to get into as it at ground level.  The biggest problem was that the steps leading to it were very slippery.  Somehow, we made it both in and out!  The water at this cenote was warmer than at any of the others.  After our swim we  enjoyed more shrimp ceviche, guacamole and shrimp kabobs. 

Only a short drive to our hotel in Chetumal.  After settling in, we ventured out for some ice cream. 

Now time for me to call it a night……

Wednesday - Siho Playa, Belamku, Chicana

 We enjoyed a leisurely morning having breakfast on the balcony of  the restaurant overlooking the Gulf of Mexico.  Juan at first tells us that they don’t serve breakfast on the balcony, only coffee.  Well, I guess we smiled really sweetly when we asked as they served us our breakfast on the balcony.  Fun watching the shore birds, the small fishing boats going by.  Then alternating swimming between the pool and the ocean, ending in the pool. 

We left about 11 AM to head back inland on our circumnavigating the Yucatan peninsula.   We drive about an hour and half and have lunch in the city of Escarcega which began as the end of the railroad. and became a cross roads. That is still all it really has going for it.  The restaurant had a nice choice of homemade soups and stews.  Of course, they knew Juan and gave him a complimentary lunch.  The other clientele seemed to be  Mexicans, using it as a stop before heading one direction or the other. 

Another hour and half drive to the ruins of Belamku.  I generally put something on each tour that I haven’t done before.  Belamku was it for this tour.  What a wonderful place!  The trees are taller than  in other places we’ve been so it is cooler and fresher.  We see several palaces, temples and alters.  But then, the big surprise!  A caretaker of the site shows up just as we get to the largest pyramid.  Juan points out to us the different levels that were built at different times.  The caretaker unlocks a little door and we can go inside the pyramid to see the stucco decoration inside that is on an older pyramid.  They are in wonderful condition.  The site just soared to one of my new favorites.  Hmmmm.  Seems like they are all my favorite. 

Our stop for the night is at the Ecolodge of Chicana.  The grounds are nice and there are many birds.  We quickly change into our suits and enjoy a refreshing swim in the pool and then a relaxed dinner at the restaurant on site. 

Loltun, Labna, Sayil, Campeche

After another satisfying breakfast with a plate of fresh cut fruit and a glass of fresh squeezed OJ, we leave the comfort of the Hacienda Uxmal.  Our first stop is the caves of Loltun.  I have been there several times before and know that it can be slippery in the rainy season and areas that are difficult to maneuver.  I go to the next town down the road to get gas while the rest go to the caves.  I have time to write the blog from yesterday and just finish as they come up from the caves.  They are all glad that they have done it but don’t plan to do it again. 

We have 2 Puuc sites to visit; one is Labna the other is Sayil.  Puuc is the hilly region and an archaeological style of construction.  The level with the doors is very plain, then a cornice divides the plain lower section to the decorated upper section.  Labna is known for the unique, arch that is decorated with stone thatched roof huts, snake and rain god representations. 

After visiting Labna, we eat the mangos that Juan picked up under some trees along the road.  Yum!

Sayil is a few miles down the road.  There is only one main structure at Sayil that is worth visiting.  It is a three story palace.  The coral colored limestone that was used makes it particularly striking.  This has always been one of my favorite structures and do not get to see it very often. 

We have a late lunch at a family local place.  We have the parilla for 4, which is several different kinds of smoked and grilled meats.  Another YUM!  

This a family place that is busy on the weekends.  It has grounds for the children to play, several swimming pools (all of which are empty), hammocks,  and a menagerie of animals.  They started with 4 peacocks but now have 32!

It is about an hour and a half ride to Campeche which is on the Gulf coast.  It is a UNESCO world heritage site with the colonial downtown area  and the city walls well persevered.  The others take a walking tour of the historic district and I find a nice comfortable place to sit in the main square.  

There are several young women from the Chiapas area of Mexico selling purses, blouses, belts, etc that are typical of the Chiapas region.  I strike up a conversation with one of them and of course end up buying more than I had planned. 

Our hotel for the night is Siho Playa on the Gulf coast.  It is a beautiful hotel right on the water with balconies overlooking the water.  We relax beside the pool.  There are a few too many clouds on the horizon for a good sunset.  As we walk back to our rooms, Julie notices 2 large objects in the water.  At first we think they may be sand bars.  But then another one arrives and they all move.  They are manatees!  It is too dark for us to seem them well but they are just off the shore and we are quite certain that is what they are. 

We head back to our rooms with the balconies and enjoy some wine and beer under the stars.  Another wonderful day!

I’m writing today’s blog while waiting for the pictures to upload from yesterday.  Oh my the internet is slow and it only works next to the reception desk.