Leaving Chamonix to Geneva

 July 18, Monday

We're squeezing in as much as we can!  A quick breakfast, pack our bags up, take them down to the storage room at the hotel, meet up with the group and we're off for another adventure.  

The Mer de Glace is a glacier that is shrinking rapidly.  We take a cog train up the mountain to a point where about a century ago, you could walk right out to the glacier.  Now one takes a cable car down.  About 15 years ago, that deposited you next to the glacier.  Now there are 580 more steps down to the ice cave carved in the glacier.  It retreats about 70 meters a year now.  At the current rate, it will be gone by the end of the century.  Nick and I take the cable car down but decide not to take the 580 steps down and back up again.  Partly, I just don't want to climb that many steps and partly, I fear that we're contributing to the melting by all going down, there and traipsing through the glacier.  Marta assures me that we're not making any significant difference but any difference multiplied through the years is significant.  

By going back to town early, we have a little time to poke around in the gift shops.  I really haven't done much of any shopping since Scotland.  We find a few little things but most of it is trashy little things.  I buy some tea towels for Andy to to take to Japan for people there.  

We choose a sidewalk cafe for lunch.  Just as we sit down, Chris and Linda wander in and join us.  They share a pizza and Nick and I share a hamburger and fries.  Rather than ketchup, they tend to put more of a Thousand Island kind of sauce on the burgers.  Really quite good.  

We meet back up with the group, Retrieve our suitcases from storage and pile into the little bus for about an hour ride to Geneva.  Geneva is part of the heat wave going through Europe and they are expecting temperatures in the 90's.  Luckily, our hotel is Crown Plaza near the airport and has AC.  

It's mid-afternoon so time to do some exploring around Geneva.  Even though the Road Scholar tour is officially over, Marta is willing to take us around and show us the old part of Geneva.  I think everyone except Nick and Patty take her up on the offer.  She tells us that she is just an old friend and not our guide as she isn't officially allowed to guide us.   In Geneva, we can ride the public transportation  for free with a little card that we get from the hotel.  

We take a bus from in front of the hotel through a modern part of the city and get off where the Rhone River enters Lake Geneva.  There is lots of shade and a nice breeze by the water so it is all quite doable.  Sometimes Marta says, "Now, if I were your guide, I would tell you......"  There are long, low yellow boats that are part of the city transportation system so we're able to ride them for free.  We take one and get off at the stop across the lake.  As soon as we get off the jet of water which is a symbol of the city goes off.  It shoots straight up for about 100 meters.  The day is clear enough that we're abe to get a last few of Mont Blanc.  We catch the next boat that comes and cross the lake to a different point that is near the old part of the city.  There is a public beach on the lake that is extremely popular today with the heat.  There is a tall diving tower.  No one is going off the highest platform but the lower 2 are quite popular.  

Our last view of Mont Blanc. (what kinda looks like clouds)

The walkway along the lake is very nice and shady with lots of people outside enjoying the late afternoon.  There's a ferris wheel but we've all been riding enough little things that go up in the air that we're not tempted.  Our first real stop is the cathedral where John Calvin preached.  He is quite the hero here with his chair on display and statues of him in the park.  Nothing about Servetus and John Calvin having him burnt at the stake for being a heretic because he was a unitarian instead of a trinitarian.  

The Maccbean chapel has beautiful stained glass windows.  It was built in the 15th century as a tomb for Jean de Brogny and his family, a cardinal who served under Pope Clement VIII. How modest of him.  

The old section of the city has the narrow winding streets of a medieval town. There are also several nice, open parks with kids playing and people hanging out.  Along the old walls, there is a bench that goes on for about 2 blocks.  It's said to be the longest bench in Europe.  Maybe even the world.

  

We take the bus back to the hotel.  People are on their own for dinner.  I go back to the room to let Nick what is going on.  Several people went straight to a nearby pizza place.  We decide to go there too.  John and Patty are there and we join them.  They are probably the ones we are most apt to stay in touch with of everyone in the group.  

Some of the group are leaving very early in the morning.  Our flight isn't until 12:30 so we can have a bit of a leisurely morning.  We're on the same shuttle as John and Patty.  Marta is in the lobby of the hotel so that she makes sure to say goodbye to everyone.  With a long warm hug, we separate.  Hopefully, our paths will meet again.  Who knows, maybe we'll go on the Camino de Santiago with her in Spain.  

Found a comfortable place to wait for our plane in Geneva.

Moxie is happy we're home.

Up and down and around Mont Blanc

 July 17, Sunday

Today is our last big day together and we make the most of it.  Hard to believe that this group of people who have jelled so well,  came together 2 weeks ago and will disperse to our separate lives in 2 days.  

We want to get an early start as the lifts get quite busy later in the day.  We walk a few blocks to the base of the cable car that will take us to Aiguille du Midi (Needle of the mid-day).  We take one big gondola up, up, up.  It's fast!  The first stop has a lookout area, a cafe, a gift shop.  But, we can go higher so of course we do.  The next part is an elevator that takes us up through the mountain to the tippy top.  We step out of the elevator and look out and down at the mountains.  Mont Blanc is right there.  We can see little ants climbing their way to the summit.  

The pyramid shape in the background is Matterhorn

A special attraction is called "Step into the Void."  It is an all glass box that gives an amazing, pushing your height heebee-jeebies experience.  The line is pretty short and I'm the first to jump into line.  Several others in the group follow.  They have huge slippers to put on over your shoes so that the glass doesn't get scratched.  The first step is a bit tentative but then it's fine.  We see Chris is on the balcony taking a picture of us standing in the void.  Since there is a line, you can't just hang out there and look around but have to take your picture and move on.  

We go through a tunnel with windows that takes us to another peak where we can look back at the Aiguille du Midi and also get better views of people who are climbing and the base camp where they leave from to climb Mont Blanc.  The more common, "easier" route is closed due to the heat which makes the surface snow more unstable.  Cervices and avalanches are more common which of course creates more danger.  The route that is open is the one that passes below Aiguille du Midi so we're seeing more climbers than sometimes.  

I’m

It is such a clear day that we're able to see the Matterhorn way off in the distance.  After many pictures, we take the elevator back down where we will take a short hike to Blue Lake.  There is a large observation deck at this point too.  We slowly climb the steps up to it.  At this altitude, we're warned to take it slow.  Here there is a helicopter pad that can be used for injured climbers.  

The hike is a short one and flatish. We get to Blue Lake and can clamor down to the water's edge.  Several of us take off our hiking boots and put our feet in the COLD water.  It feels soooooo good.  I do love any hike that involves water.  

Joe and Rick have made plans to go para sailing this afternoon at 3.  We all want to support them and watch them take off. Their jumping off point is up the cable car to Planparaz on the other side of the valley.  We all get up there before Joe and Rick so camp out at the cafe where we can watch for them as they get off the cable car.  Wanda, Joe's wife, is handling it well.  Joe and Rick come up with their para sailing partners.  We follow them up the hill to a grassy knoll where they spread out the sails and strap up.  Rick takes off first.  Nice and smooth.  Joe has a false start.  They regroup and have a successful launch.  We all cheer.  They circle around and go over our heads.  The take off point has a good updraft which they want to take advantage of to get some good height.  

Wanda being brave

Most of us take another cable car on up to the summit of Le Brévent at 2525 m.   It's an easy walk to the tippytop. Rock stacks abound and do make a nice little garden and entertainment for the kids.  The background hum of happy chatter is broken when a group of teens decide to play their music loudly.  We decide it's time to go down.  

Tonight is our last group dinner.  We are eating outside with a nice view of the mountains.  Before desert, a waiter comes out with a big cardboard cake with sparklers.  It turns out that yesterday was Rick's 70th birthday.  We sing happy birthday and all sign a card.  He was widowed about 4 years ago and I think this really meant a lot to him.  

End of the trip little synopsis of the group.

Suki - teaches pharmacology in New Orleans.  Her mother is German, her father Indian.  She grew up in India.  Strong personality who liked to be noticed.  She didn't like the Whisper contraptions that we wore to hear the guides.  On hikes she often went either ahead of the group or lingered a bit behind.  She said she didn't care about the names of the mountains or how high they are as those are aspects given by humans.  She wanted to experience the spirit of them.  

Chris - Teaches spin classes in Knoxville so in really good physical condition.  Always enthusiastic and talkative.  Married to an attorney who isn't nearly as adventurous as she is and didn't come on the trip.

Linda - A friend of Chris, widowed.  A bit of the demeanor of a classy Southern woman. (Which I mean in a very positive way) Always put together and a very strong hiker.  Smiling and generous.

Ellen - Another widow.  New York, Irish.  Reminded me a bit of Janet Haas in looks and mannerisms. Often after dinner she would take another walk by herself to make sure she got enough steps in.  

Beth - Law professor at Fordham University.  She was afraid of heights and the cable cars.  She really pushed herself and went on several of them.  I think she wisely decided the big one to Aiguille du Midi was too much for her so she skipped that outing.  

Sheila - Widow from Philadelphia.  She had had several cosmetic surgeries so her face was always a little frozen.  She was always dressed very stylishly.  I was a little intimidated by my first impression.  However, when talking with her, I found her delightful and very open and caring.  She is a big birder and usually had her binoculars with her.  

J

Steve - The Road Scholar veteran among us with over 50 tours!  A retired college librarian in Missouri.  He knew a lot and also wanted to show that off.  I think he may be somewhere on the spectrum.  He had canned jokes that he would tell as a way to interact with others.  

Rick - Rather quiet and private.  He lost his wife about 4 years ago and seems to be looking for his way.  He will be staying in Geneva for a month after we leave at an Airbnb.  He had a candy shop in Texas.

Joe - A jovial man who wrestled in high school and college.  Works out a lot.  

Wanda - Joe's wife.  Also quiet so it was hard to get to know her.  Home schooled her kids.

John - Retired attorney living in Davis, CA but spent a lot of time in Minnesota.  We were often at the end of the hiking line taking pictures.  He and his wife, Patty, met while playing the part of husband and wife in a community theater production.  

Patty - Just retired as a Montessori teacher of kids 6-9 years old.  We had many school conversations.  Now she is reading books for audio recordings.  She is also training service dogs in a program shared with a local prison where the dogs spend time in prison with a prisoner working with them.  

Marta - our marvelous guide.  Marta was really attentive to the needs of every person.  She truly loves what she does and enjoys meeting all of us.  It is obvious that the people in the hotels, restaurants, bus drivers know her and like her.  She always make sure to take time to thank them with a smile.  

We came together.  Enriched each others lives.  Shared and created memories.  And go our separate ways.