Saturday, November 12, 2022

Sunday, November 7. Dolores Hidalgo, Atononilco and on to San Miguel de Allende

 

As we leave town, we stop at a church overlooking the city.  In many ways, the churches are all the same and yet they are all different and have their own feel.  This one was financed by a single person who was the owner of one of the mines.  The front is all 23 Karat gold leaf.  I thought that was impressive.  And then walked to the front of the church to discover that there were ones just as big and ornate to the right and left.  Oh my!  What could have been done with that much wealth to raise the standard of living of so many people.  It also seemed ironic that there were numerous signs reminding us that this is God’s house, be respectful, no flash.  But all of the pews were cordoned off so it was impossible to sit and really reflect and be in a spiritual frame of mind. 





The scenery on the way to Dolores Hidalgo is very nice as we drive through the mountains.  There is even a song written about the road by the famous popular singer Jose Alfredo Jimenez.  In Dolores Hidalgo, we visit the home of Hidalgo.  Since this town has so much history concerning the start of the fight for independence from Spain, it is very special to Mexicans.  There is a replica of the bell that was rung to inspire the war.  The original one is in Mexico City.  We eat lunch at a restaurant on the square.  They have a huge offrenda to the musician Jose Alfredo Jimenez, who was from the town. 







Next stop is the Sanctuario de Atotonilco, known as the Sistine Chapel to many Mexicans.  As soon as we turn off the main road, it is crowded with parked cars, people walking and little stalls.  Many are selling food but most are selling little religious trinkets.  The one I found most amazing and disturbing were little rope flagellators for children.   As soon as one enters the church, you can see why it is referred to as the Mexican Sistine Chapel.  The ceiling is covered in paintings.  But these are not the beautiful, peaceful, cherubs.  These are mostly black and grays and depict gory aspects of the crucifixion.  Then there is the side chapel that costs 20 pesos to enter.  That is where the real gore and macabre is.  Life size 3D figures of people putting Jesus on the cross as well as the other 2 who were crucified that day.  Arms hanging at strange angles, men on horses coming to do who knows what.  This is so contrary to any way that I think.  Outside of the church is a statue of Hidalgo with a banner of the Virgin of Guadalupe.  The war of independence was a war between the Mexican version of Virgin Mary and the Spanish version of Virgin Mary. 







On to San Miguel de Allende.  Our hotel is wonderful!  First off, the office is a library where one can go sit and look at all the books.  Plants are everywhere and there are little sitting areas hidden around.  Dean and Melanie’s room is the most unusual -  up a little spiral staircase.  But once you get there, there is a cute little sitting area as well as a little balcony.  It’s 2 long blocks to the main square, right next to the park where artist set up their work on Sundays.  Serves breakfast.  I think I may have finally found a hotel in San Miguel de Allende that fits all of my requirements. 








We all walk up to the main square and have a little time to enjoy the ambiance before going to dinner.  The church is beautiful in the daytime and at night when it is all lit up. 






When we were at Canada de la Virgen, we were talking to another traveler.  We said we were planning to go to the butterfly reserves.  He said he had tried to go and that they were closed to visitors because it was their mating season and would not open for another 2 weeks.  Obviously, this was unsettling news.  Juan and I looked into it and the website indicated what the hours were.  Checking it at various times of the day it would say things like “Open”, “Closing soon”, “Closed”.  Seemed promising but I was still dubious without talking to a person saying “Yes, it is open to visitors now”  A bit deeper research confirmed that it was closed to visitors until November 18.  OH CRAP!  What to do???  How will we tell people???

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