June 6
We have a relaxed start this morning with a late breakfast. The owner of the apartment comes by and fixes the door and lock so we're able to get in and out. Our destination today is Culloden. Before today I really didn't know much about it other than Rick Steves recommended it and that a big battle had taken place here and lots of people were killed. I now have much deeper knowledge and respect for the history that led up to the battle. We had a great guide who brought the place to life and in perspective as we walked around the battle field.
It was basically a civil war in Great Brittan that took place in 1746. (Not a war between Scotland and England as Outlander would have you believe.) One of the issues was a group that wanted to have a protestant king on the British throne and not a Catholic one. The Jacobites were followers of the Stuart family that had been rulers of England and forced out. They were trying to regain the rule of England. As it was presented today, they really had quite a legitimate claim to the throne. As is the case in many wars, a series of unfortunate events changed the tides of history. The Jacobites were soundly defeated at Culloden. Not only defeated but the British Royal army hunted down and killed anyone who was remotely related to anyone fighting for or supporting the Jacobites. Forbade the wearing of kilts, speaking Gaelic or congregating in churches. This mostly wiped out a culture that was hundreds of years old. It has survived through an agreement that the Highlanders could fight for the British Army in foreign wars where they carried on Gaelic traditions. (Sidenote that this all happened about 30 years before our revolution and our declaration of independence was influenced by the experience of the battle at Culloden.)
Nearby Culloden is Clava Cairns which is an ancient burial and ceremonial site from the bronze age Two of the three have an opening entrance facing the sunrise at the Winter solstice. Then there are standing stones that ring the outside of each structure. The birds were singing. The sun was shining. Life is so good!
We stopped by the Tomatin whisky distillery on the way back to our apartment. We're a wee bit late for the tour and are actually also a wee bit late for the sampling bar. But, the sweet young woman gave us a free sample of their 12 year old legendary. We plan to be back tomorrow.
We stop by the little convenience store by our apartment and pick up a few things to supplement our leftovers from last night. Add some pistachio cannoli and another bottle of wine to that and we've got a great little dinner.
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